From seeing this place on TV, pictures on postcards, I had a fair idea what I was going to see. And like the pyramids of Giza, Petra, Angkor Wat, etc. I was really looking forward to experiencing it for myself. Not created by human hands this time though, Ha Long is completely the work of nature.
So off I set on my 2 day, 1 night trip.

The van as is usual for this type of trip picked all the people from their different hotels/hostels and as it was pretty early in the morning there wasn’t much chat on the 5 hour drive to Ha Long.
The van broke down near the start of the journey making us arrive later than expected.

But when we disembarked at the bay we started chatting. Mainly because we were made to hang around for a bit by our guide, who seemed to be unorganised from the start.
While chatting amongst ourselves it became apparent that everybody had paid different prices for the same trip. While I’d paid $37, others had paid $30, $50, $60, $80, even over $100. A bit of confusion kicked up. Some expecting a standard boat trip, others superior, others deluxe… But we were all bundled onto the same boat. Was it standard? Deluxe? No-one knew, and the guide’s English was crap. This was to begin a series of events that did nearly spoiled the trip for everyone!

Once on the boat I found the rooms to be fine for me. Maybe I’d been upgraded to a superior boat. So I was happy enough. I was to share with a big Aussie lad Joey who seemed good craic. We ate dinner as the boat pulled out into the bay. 2 Israeli girls in the group weren’t able to eat the seafood dishes and weren’t provided with an alternative so a bit of a row kicked off again with the guide.

I went up to the top deck to enjoy the scenery as we got closer to the main groupings of islands. But I made the mistake of asking the guide about our itinerary for the day. He sat down beside me and without answering my question spoke to me for about half an hour about how i could help him improve his crap English. I tried to look as if I was reading my book but he wouldn’t let up and got pretty annoying considering I wanted to relax and take in my surroundings. Eventually he moved on and annoyed a couple of English girls in the group who were trying to relax too.

The Ha Long islands always tend to look mysteriously shrouded in mist on postcard photos and this was the case for today. As we approached it was pretty difficult to even make out the islands in the distance. But when we got amongst them the effect of the mist was very atmospheric and suddenly all around the boat were countless tall, nearly vertically sided, round topped hilly islands. They look at first glance to be pretty inaccessible unless you had some serious rock-climbing equipment. But at the water level dotted around many of the islands seemed to be the odd little entrance to a cave here and there. Some a few meters in length and others cutting deep into the bases of the islands.

I think everyone in the group was expecting to be given an informative description and history of this islands, how they formed, what type of rock etc. But we’d all come to the conclusion that this wasn’t going to happen because the guide was truly completely rubbish.

The boat stopped outside a massive cave and we climbed off onto a long set of steps that took us into a cavernous and many chambered cave complex which was genuinely amazing. The different forms and shapes formed by the stalactites and stalagmites were all lit up in different colours to try to make them more impressive which isn’t necessary and a bit tacky. The only information that the guide was able to give with his stupid little laser beam thing was ‘this rock looks like a cock! Look, there’s the head of the cock, and the body..’ etc. Then he went ‘cluck cluck.’ he was talking about a chicken. But then in the next chamber he pointed again at another rock and went ‘look, big penis.’ he was starting to piss everyone off now, no pun intended. If you wanted to go around comparing rocks here to penises you’d have a field day, but I didn’t really think that was the point, again no pun intended…

So we came out of the cave high up from where you could look down over the water at the islands and the many junk boats weaving in amongst them, some with their curved sails up. Great view.

Next we were to go kayaking in the bay. As we had arrived at the bay late, because the van had broken down, it was already dusk. And before we knew it me and Joey were out in a kayak in the dark having been given zero instruction by the guide where to go, how long to spend paddling about etc. So we headed off and explored some islands and investigated a few caves. I brought a beer out in the kayak. This was a great experience getting close to and in under some of the islands but we had to get back to our boat in the pitch dark. Luckily we’d paid attention about from where we had set out. So we were able to get back ok, but it would be very easy to forget your bearings and get lost out in the bay. And a few people nearly did.

When we had bought our tickets we’d all been told there would be entertainment in the evening with drinks and karaoke. No-one was bothered about not having karaoke but there was no entertainment at all and the drinks were really expensive so everyone just sat around and chatted for a bit before turning in for the night.

Note: a few weeks ago a boat identical to this one sank in the night in Ha Long bay killing a number of tourists. The ones on the upper floors survived but apparently the boat sank so quickly that those asleep in the lower decks had no chance. Joey and I discussed this for a bit as we lay in our beds in the lowest deck of the boat before deciding that it really wasn’t a good idea to even think about it.
…Goodnight!

Sa Pa is an incredibly picturesque town in the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range near the Chinese border in northwestern Viet Nam, 350km from Hanoi.

It can be explored almost year-round from March to early December. Vietnamese most like to visit during June and July to escape the summer heat in other parts of the country. Sa Pa is 1,500m above sea level so the weather is quite mild, and cold at night.

The best time to go to Sapa is on a weekday, as weekenders tend to flock here. However, the famed “love market” only takes place on Saturday nights, so visitors often extend their tour to Saturday to experience it.

Tourists can see many hill tribe people, their villages and rice terraces. The ethnic minority groups generally retain their lifestyles and traditional costumes.

Gracious guides: Many local women work as souvenir sellers and tour guides to lead tourists to discover their hometown’s lifestyle and hidden charm.
The area’s high mountains, deep ravines and lush vegetation rise to the peak of Mt Fansipan – the highest point in Indochina. The combination of fresh mountain air, relaxed ambience, sweeping panoramas and fascinating hill tribes make Sa Pa a must-see destination.

A trek took us deep into a hill tribe region where tourists are still something of a novelty. Staying in village homes allowed us to experience firsthand a lifestyle that has been little touched by the modern world and a curiosity from our hosts just as great as our own. The trekking is fairly strenuous at times but the spectacular scenery and sense of adventure make it worth the effort.

I can’t explain why all of the local tour guides are women. All are under 30 and haven’t yet married. Thao Thi Ru, a Dao ethnic woman, has guided tourists since she was 12, after starting her career as a souvenir vendor. Sometimes, to get tourists buy her hand-made souvenirs, she has offered herself as a guide for free. Gradually, she has learned English from them, learned to cook dishes to their tastes, and acquired the experience to become a professional tour guide.

“Being local, we have an advantage over tour companies,” Ru said. “Foreign tourists prefer us to guide them because we know the ways and easily lead them to villages and local houses. They love to understand the local customs as told by locals like us.”

Under Ru’s direction, we visit Ta Van, Ta Phin and Ban Ho communes and get a greater understanding of the Mong and Dao people’s stone-carving, weaving, jewelry-making, metalwork and embroidery crafts.

Ta Phin Cave, at the far end of Ta Phin village, is an attractive destination which tourists often bypass without a local guide’s suggestion.

The cave requires a guide with a flashlight, and the guide will shine the torch on a variety of stalactites.

Some of the locals invite visitors to go to their homes to show how they live and what they have, and tell them about their families. On following them to their houses, tourists find out how simply they live. The tour guides suggest you to buy the merchandise you like from them as repayment for what they have shown for you.

Local tour guides also lead the trips to the forests and mountains because they know thoroughly the terrain.

Before starting a tour, the guides remind tourists to bring food, shoes, sleeping bags and other necessities, said Giang Thi Co, a Mong woman.

“I have learned from the elders folk medicines to treat stomach aches, muscle pains and snake bite,” Co said. “Once, a Western woman couldn’t walk anymore because her legs were sore, so I picked some leaves to apply to her swollen calves. She felt better and said ‘good, good!’ to me.”

City lovers may find Sa Pa is not the place for them as its rich ethnic lifestyle is far removed from modern life. If you expect to go shopping in malls, Sa Pa has nothing to offer. The only way to go shopping is to go to the local market where you can find unique handicrafts, jewelry and fabrics with colourful embroidery. While tourists don’t know how to bargain or choose the best items, the local guides are ready to help.

Sa Pa is famous for its “love market” where local young people go to show off and find partners. It is held every Saturday night and provides a unique and unforgettable experience.

The love market is a tradition in the culture of the Mong, Tay and Dao. All the people around Sa Pa live in isolated villages and can only get together once a week during the Sunday morning market. The night before, young men and women from all around come to the love market to meet and express their emotions through playing the khen (pan pipe) and singing according to traditional customs of their people.

The experience of Sa Pa trip is not something that everyone can buy, but adventurous people and those who seek to know the hidden charm of Vietnamese hill tribes living in their old traditional mountain villages cannot miss this place.

(Source: VNS)

Travelling in Sapa, few tourists miss an opportunity to trek to mountain villages and majestic waterfalls.

Cat Cat Village sits atop unspoiled landscapes and is a desirable destination for trekkers seeking to spend full days walking in a world of natural charm and tranquility.

Visiting the village, tourists will discover various traditional trades of the local people such as weaving, jewelry manipulation, metal work and stone carvings.

The road from Sapa winds through hilly terrain, past terraced paddy fields. A sign reads “Welcome to Cat Cat Cultural Village”, greeting visitors as they arrive at the entrance of the village.

A leisurely walk within the old village provides visitors with a better understanding of the traditional customs and practices of the ethnic Mong people that live here.

While wandering around the village, I continually asked the locals about their crafts and houses. I was curious about everything and the locals were friendly and ready to help. They also politely asked me to buy some hand-made souvenirs.

Visitors in Cat Cat have an opportunity to admire and watch locals sit with looms and create colourful pieces of brocade. When these pieces of brocade are finished, they are dyed and embroidered with beautiful designs of flowers and birds. Interestingly, Mong women use plants and leaves to dye the fabrics. After dyeing the fabric, they then roll a round, smooth piece of wood, covered with wax, over the material in order to polish. By doing this it helps to make the colours more durable on the fabric.

In addition to their weaving craft, many residents in Cat Cat are good at making gold and silver jewelry. Their products are quite sophisticated, especially the women’s jewelry.

Further into the village are waterfalls along with a stream that weaves its way around boulders, hills and mountains. The pristine stream is spanned by a suspension bridge, which offers a good view of the waterfalls and mountains.

The path after the bridge passes through bamboo forests filled with wild flowers and past tranquil brooks.

Another must-see village is Ta Phin, a remote village located 12km from the centre of Sapa, which still retains traditional customs and lifestyles of the Dao, Tay and Mong ethnic groups.

It’s recommended for tourists to catch a local xe om (motorbike taxi) at price of VND180,000 (US$10) in order to get there. Another option is to rent a motorbike for VND100,000 ($5.50) a day, which provides a convenient and interesting way to discover the landscape and villages.

Despite the winding road to the village, tourists can see picturesque rolling hills and terraced fields on the way. Much of the Sa Pa valley has been cultivated into verdant rice paddy fields equipped with irrigation systems.

Capitalise

Ta Phin village seeks to capitalise from tourism and thus causes local children and adults to constantly follow visitors, in an effort to persuade them to buy wallets, hats, bags or fabric. However, these sellers tend to be friendly and hospitable.

The villagers often invite tourists to visit their homes, where they show them how they live and what they have, and tell about their families. Their living standard is still low, but their lives have been improved by the expanding tourism industry.

“We women are so active – not only do we grow vegetables and raise pigs and get wood for the fire, we also try to learn English so we can talk to tourists,” said a 25-year-old Dao woman. “Before there were tourists we were very poor, but now we can make handicrafts, make money and meet people.”

Ta Phin Village is able to win tourists’ hearts thanks to the beautiful sights that surround it. Lavie waterfall is a common destination for trekkers. After trekking through forests, maize fields and mountains, tourists often enjoy soaking in Lavie stream and sunbathing on flat boulders.

After a long day of walking on the curvy roads and hills around Sa Pa, it was pleasant to soak my bones and muscles in a traditional Dao herbal bath at Ta Phin.

The price was reasonable, VND60,000 ($3.30) for a one-hour bath. Soaking in medicinal waters may make you feel a little tipsy. When you start feeling dizzy, it’s time to get out of the wooden bathtub. After the soak, I finally felt relaxed. The herbal bath was good for my health, mind and bones.

I was very happy to have a chance to travel to Sa Pa. I will never forget how it felt to stand in front of imposing, beautiful mountains.

We left Lao Cai in the rain this morning. I pretty much just put myself in the mindset that I signed up for a week of this. Plus, its not like I can just change my mind and go home. I am so happy now that I brought the raincoat and the backpack rain cover. We were able to get all my stuff covered and dry and on the bikes. Its probablly been 10 years since I had my motorcycle, so I expected to be a bit rusty. Which I was. I dont count the scooter ride we all did on Cat Ba island. The Minsk is a pretty underpowered, simply built, no frills bike. Which is probablly why its popular for this kind of trip. Its larger then the little scooters everyone drives and has more ground clearance.

Most importantly though is the fact that you can pretty much work on the things with your bare hands and everyone from infants to the elderly knows how to pretty much strip one down and rebuild the engine on the spot. My guide has 2 saddle bags filled with enough parts that he can rebuild an entire engine on the side of the road.. The Minsk is a russian built motorcycle and its a 2 stroke so oil has to be mixed into the gas. Its loud, it smokes, and it feels alot like ridiing on the back of a chainsaw only with wheels.

Which came in handy today ashe broke down about 2 times. However in less than 10 minutes he had figured it out and was back up and running. I have have the newer, more powerful one thank god. I still spent a lot of time in first and second gear getting up some of the passes we crossed today. One thing nice though was that the rain stopped by around noon.

For awhile we just followed a normal sized road out of town and followed a river. After about an hour maybe the mtns just kept getting more rugged and bigger and bigger. We hit a small town and he made a right turn onto a dirt road. Well, the term dirt is being generous. It was a mud road. We went about 5 miles on that straigt into the back woods. We came over a small hill and into a very little village having a market. Everyone is just walking in the mud and the stalls are set up on either side.

In one place they had 6 homemade pool tables and most of the men and boys seemed to be gathered around while they played some game that was a combination of pool and cards. Everytime they hit a ball in they drew a card. not sure what was happening but this game seems to be everywhere. There was a table set up in almost every village we passed. It must be a fun game as they were all into it with small money changing hands constantly.

Here, people where more shy then back in Hanoi. I would smile and nod, or smile and say hello and people would nod but then move away quickly. Not one person today tried to sell me a single thing either. We have left the main trail where normal tourists go. One thing here happened though that was quite embarrassing was when I went to get on the bike I could tell about 40 or 50 villagers all started to watch me to see my amazing motorcycle skills. As I get on the bike I cant get the kick start to work with enough force. So as I get off the bike my pants leg catches something and i fall on the ground in the mud with the bike falling over on me. Here I am sitting in the mud with my motorcycle pinning me down. A kind villager walking by grabbed the bike and lifted it off me so I could get up. Half the village thought it was the funniest thing since the 3 stooges.

After we left the market and rode up into the Tonkenese alps, it dawned on me that I had not seen a single tourist or white person in almost 2 hours. I also then noticed that where we were going was not passable by cars and trucks. We had truly gone into the back country now. If ever in my life I felt like an explorer it was now. It really hit me about where I was when my guide at a pullover, pointed at a small road on the other side of a very narrow valley and stated that the road and hill was in China. Here I was on a tiny mtn path on my little dirt bike surrounded by amazing jungle covered mtns and looking at China just across from he. It really makes you slow down on the road thats for sure. You know that feeling you get when someone hands you a baby to carry across a pit filled with snakes?

You know how carefully you take each step? I was getting that same feeling now. You get sick or hurt here not sure what would happen. I have to say out of all my trips I have done, this one has to be the most remote.

Its at this point that I feel inadequete trying to describe the scenery and the villages. I am also bummed I am not a better photographer or have better gear. It was so exotic and so beautiful as to be past my non existant ability as a writer to paint a picture on how beautiful it is. And I am afraid that my pictures just don’t do it justice. We ended the day at a small local lodge. There is a family here and they have 2 rooms. The rooms were clean and simple. They served me lunch and dinner which has been interesting. Since no one speaks English I cant ask what I am eating. So I am just using my better judgement. I am not super huge into trying wierd or exoctic foods. So I have found some things very tasty but because I dont know what it is my mindwont let me just chow down on it. Because of that I have not been eating too much which is probablly good as I could definitly use to lose a pound or twenty. This was confirmined when a vietnamese man in the market today walked by and rubbed my belly.

My guide Zhun and I walked about 2 or 3 miles up a stone path that lead to the top of the mtn here. At the top was a large village of the Red Hmong. They are named by colors based on what the women wear. They are an ethnic minority and do not speak Vietnamese so even my guide could not communicate with them. They are very shy and will not try to really make contact. Before we left though a man coming home could speak Vietnamese and invited us to his hut. Wow, what an eye opener. The floor is just dirt worn really shiny by decades of people on it. Everyone is dirty all the time. No real furniture and government posters were on the wall to cover gaps in the wood and the planks. The 4 children all just stood and stared. None of themwould smile. The wife was in the adjoining room squatting down on the floor chopping up stuff for dinner I would imagine. She glanced up to see us then turned her back and never once stopped working while we were there. It does seem unbalanced that the women in most cultures seem to work the hardest.

The man had us sit down on tiny plastic chairs and he served us some tea. I am a bit worried as at the moment I took one little sip and swallowed it then realized that I should not have drank the water here. It was very hot but you just dont know. I am hoping I dont pay for that sip. in an alcove was 2 small raised bamboo mats that were beds and a TV in between them. He was proud of the TV and had the children plug it in. The man has a satelite dish and got perfect reception. We sat for a while watching some chinese TV. The kids were in front of it and not moving. I bet there are not many places in the world left you can go where there is no TV.

Back  to lodge, a small bowl of rice and some other stuff I still dont know what it is, and then I was as exhausted as I have been in awhile and off to dream world. Dreaming of 4 inch long beetles climbing up my bed. (there was one of those by where you wash your hands. They turned it over on its back so it cant get away and its like a pet now or something) Oh and by the way I am also very glad to have brought my little silk sleeping bag. So handy for situations just like this.

Bloger: Dave

Apparently still a bit politically unstable since the 17 day invasion by China in 1979, all seemed peaceful with people literally sprinting between the two countries without a worry in the world other than would they sell their wares on the other side. All queue orderly to get in.

Note to anyone who doesn’t queue in an orderly fashion to get into Vietnam – in the last 53 years Vietnam have warred with France, Laos, Cambodia, USA and China about their country and its boundaries … and beaten up on them all!

Talking of beating up, the minibus conductors in Lao Cai quite literally manhandle their ‘clients’ onto the bus in order to get it filled up quickly. Ours still took 1.5 hours to do this and by the time we left also had a cargo of tiles, tv’s and various ironmongery – mercifully though, no pigs or chickens.

The bus journey took us into beautiful rain forest covered mountains. By the time we reached our 5th floor room (no lift, heavy backpacks) the past 24 hours were forgotten as we opened our window to look out on a sun filled river valley built into glistening rice-terraces with Vietnam’s highest peak in the background.
Sapa should be wonderfully tranquil, however the offers of transport and souvenirs is incessant. The Hmong ladies rather direct “you buy from me” approach must be met with a no or you get a chaperon, or several, for any amount of time. One couple we met suggested to an old lady that they would look later. 3.5 hours later she was still in tow not wanting to miss her sale, but it is only because they are industrious here as the woman collecting plastic bottles for recycling proved.

Sapa was our first venture out on a motorbike. It took us to a couple of lovely waterfalls, one of which Paul went skinny dipping in but Nicola bottled out after testing the water temperature. We also managed to run a (tourist only) toll road as the bloke didn’t get out of his seat fast enough saving us 40,000 dong. We also met a 6 year old girl ‘driving’ a buffalo down the road. As soon as she saw our camera she shouted “photo one dollar”. As we opened the throttle and sped off we thought our second monetary saving of the day may come back to haunt us in some form of karma.

Having been to Hanoi before, we decided to head straight through to Cat Ba Island in Halong Bay. A mini-bus, train, taxi, bus, another mini-bus, boat and one more bus got us to Cat Ba town 19 hours later. It’s only 250 miles!

Cat Ba town has 3 beaches imaginatively called 1, 2 and 3 but running in the order 2, 1, 3 from North to South. All are a little overpowered by the surrounding hotels and restaurants but have lovely sand and warm seas. By the time the first night set in it was clear that the power cut affecting the whole town was going to be a long one (it ended up lasting 30 hours) and our hotel wasn’t putting on the generator. We got matches a candle and a cold shower.

The following 2 days were the real reason for going to Cat Ba. 5 of us took a small boat out into the bay. Incredible Karst formations in the sea … thousands of them. Think 007, The Man with the Golden Gun, limestone pinnacles up to 100m high every way you look. Kayaks off the back of the boat meant at low tides we could access lagoons within these formations via caves and tunnels. We were now starting to think more along the lines of ‘The Beach’ than James Bond.

Dinner was selected by us at a floating fish farm in the bay. “Crab tonight please.”
“Certainly Sir, this one?”
“Perfect, throw it in pot.”
Can’t get fresher than that!

Next is Ninh Binh, a hell hole of a town, but our gateway to Cuc Phuong National Park. Another motorbike rental gets us to the park, but is nearly out of petrol by the time we reach our accommodation. But being SE Asia we were allowed to fill an empty water bottle at the local petrol station on our trek back to the park.

As we enter the park a multitude of butterflies erupt from the road. Butterflies and other insects are the major wildlife on view for the next 48 hours. Grasshoppers and spiders are our companions for our first 13km trek and Nicola is beginning to doubt the fun in spending 2 nights here. As we return from dinner these doubts are fully justified as we encounter the biggest spider either of us has ever seen – even those behind glass in any zoo we have been to. Sooo big, neither of us is going back with the camera, we just dive under our mosquito nets and lay awake for the night listening for the encroaching bugs.

Next day we trekked 7 hours deeper into the jungle to visit a local Huong village. More bugs. Paul is well impressed to spot a stick insect on the forest floor, but feels a little deflated when our guide says “and here’s another”, as if to imply, how is it that you didn’t see any before now? After 7 hours and 16km thrashing through spiders webs, leeches and overgrown paths we come into a clearing and spot the village only to see a major highway running alongside it. Gutted.

Power-cut number 2 in Vietnam means we eat a good meal by candlelight with our local family, whilst drinking rice wine. Lots of 42% rice wine. Random photos found on the camera the following morning are testament to just how much rice wine!

Back to Ninh Binh to catch our overnight bus to Vientiane in Laos. The border guards Cau Treo fleece us for a bribe, amidst various curses from the westerners, before giving us a passport stamp that will allow us to leave the country. At least in Nam Phao in Laos it is government sponsored bribery – they advertise the price of the stamp and even the extra cost of doing this at the weekend! It kind of tarnishes a spectacular border crossing. Valleys hanging with mist so that it looks like trees are growing out of the clouds above you.

On y trouve des tribus Hmong dans leurs costumes traditionnels qui viennent des montagnes pour vendre leur artisanat et leurs productions agricoles. Nous avons decouvert le marche du week-end ou la ville grouille de Hmong, nous avons aussi fait un petit trek de 4-5 heures sur le mont Ham Rong dans un labyrinthe de sentiers qui nous conduisent au travers les jardins d’orchidees (pas en fleur malheureusement..), les araignees impressionantes, les formations rocheuses qui poussent comme de gigantesques champignons noirs et les paysages qui se renouvellent sans cesse. Nous avons aussi loue une moto pour parcourir les chemins (dangeureux!!) jusqu’a la chute de Silverfalls, haute de plusieurs centaines de metres et qui se brise a quatre reprises…

Magique! Nous avons aussi visite un village Hmong, Cat Cat, avec lui aussi une belle chute et une riviere qui se prolonge par de nombreux rapides. Allant vers Ban Den, Nous avons circule pendant une heure sur notre moto vers l’est, voyant les paysages epoustouflants se renouveller encore et encore a chaque tournant. Nous avons ete litterallement seduits par cet endroit. Les repas sont aussi tres peu dispendieux si on ose.. Pour moins de 2$, on peut se payer deux brochettes, une portion de riz et de l’eau.

Ce soir par contre, nous nous sommes paye la traite et avons mange un bon spagat sauce carbonnara suivi d’une crepe banane et sauce chocolat et d’un yogourt au miel. Attention! Si vous voyez “local wine” sur le menu, ce n’est pas du vin! Nous avons essaye un vin au riz et un aux pommes et avons recu du fort avec ces saveurs!! Disons que ca accompagne mal un repas de pates… Bref, Sapa est un must si vous venez au VietNam et oubliez les guides, a moins que vous vouliez monter au sommet du VietNam, le mont Fansipan, haut de ses 2900 metres. Le meilleur moyen: une carte touriste avec les attractions indiquees et une moto pour 5$/jour.

Bloger: Phyllie

One step at a time

Overview: More country stroll than hike, this short walk provides an excellent introduction to the countryside surrounding Sapa.  Most people tackle this trail on their first day in Sapa, when they’re still feeling worn out from the long night-train ride from Hanoi.  Trail Route: This hike begins just past the popular Cat Cat Hotel, continues on past the turreted mansion-like HQ for Hoang Lien National Park, and then descends by staircase to Cat Cat Falls.  After crossing the river on a plank-floored suspension bridge, the trail then climbs steeply up the other side of the valley before descending to cross the river yet again on another narrow suspension bridge.  At this point you can walk back to Sapa or hire one of the waiting motorcycle drivers to take you back on a high-speed ride up twisting mountain roads.  Hilltribes: Black Hmong live in an extended village scattered along the river valley.  The Scenery: The Cat Cat Falls are picturesque, though nowhere near the size of the famed Silver Waterfall (see below).  Fitness Level: Moderate, as the trail features hundreds of concrete steps.  Trail Conditions: Cement staircase or sidewalk the whole way.  The second suspension bridge has lost some planks, so watch your step.  Trail

Rules: Cattle and water buffalo always have the right of way.  Reality Check: Expect to share the trail with not just backpackers but more well-heeled travelers as well, since tour buses regularly unload their charges at the stairs leading down to Cat Cat Falls.  Costs: Though it’s not always collected, foreigners normally pay 10,000 Vietnamese dong (US$0.70) to enter Cat Cat Village, payable at the gatehouse just past the Cat Cat Hotel.  The motorcycle ride back from the end of the hike should cost about 10 to 15,000 dong (US$0.70 to 1.00) with a little polite haggling.  Guides: This hike is so easy to follow that a guide isn’t necessary.  Keep in mind that if you go to Sapa with an organized tour, a guided version of this hike will likely be included in the itinerary.  The Kangaroo Café in Hanoi offers inexpensively priced tours to Sapa that consistently get good reviews from travelers .

Lao Chai and Ta Van

Overview: This hike offers spectacular cloud-shrouded mountain scenery and the chance to walk through traditional hilltribe villages and their surrounding rice paddies.  Trail Route: The hike initially follows a mountain road that leads out of Sapa, then descends into a deep valley, crosses the Ta Van River, and winds through rice paddies and the spread-out homes of Lao Chai and Ta Van villages.  Eventually the trail crosses back over the river and rejoins the road, where most hikers then hire a jeep or motorcycle for the return ride to Sapa.  Hilltribes: Black Hmong and Day communities line the hiking route.  The Scenery: From the road you’ll get an absolutely stunning view of the mountains across the river valley as well as the villages nestled down in the valley itself.  In the summer, expect to see luminous green rice paddies.  Duration: 3 to 4 hours at a reasonable pace, assuming you take a jeep back to Sapa; add another two hours minimum if you don’t.  Fitness Level: Moderate.  Trail Conditions: Construction crews are currently improving the road out of Sapa, so expect to encounter torn-up portions of pavement with axle-deep mud and piles of blasted rock.  The trail down into the valley can be steep and slick in spots, so be sure to buy a bamboo walking stick from one of the local Hmong kids for 2,000 dong (US$0.15).  Don’t wear your best shoes and pants, as the trail’s rust-orange mud can permanently stain your clothes.  Trail Rules: Behave as if you’re walking through somebody’s front yard, because often you will be.  And remember that while this hike is a photographer’s dream, you should ask first before taking pictures of anyone you meet.  Reality Check: In just a few years this hike has become highly popular, so expect to share the trail with your fellow travelers.  Costs: Try to buy something from the locals, even if it’s just a lukewarm can of Coke.  They’re desperately poor and need the cash, which is one reason why foreigners must pay 10,000 dong (US$0.70) to enter the Lao Chai area.  You pay the fee at the gatehouse on the road out of Sapa.  Guides: Though the trail has become so well established that you could probably hike it on your own without great difficulty, you’ll get more out of the hike if you hire one of the local Hmong teenagers as a guide.  These self-assured young women can explain Hmong culture, interpret what the locals say, and tell you their own fascinating life stories — and they can do all this in startlingly good English.  Keep in mind that if you go to Sapa with an organized tour, a guided version of this hike will likely be included in the itinerary.  The Kangaroo Café in Hanoi offers inexpensively priced tours to Sapa that consistently get high marks from travelers.

Don’t pass on this one

Overview: Jeep or motorcycle ride to the 300-foot (100 m) Silver Waterfall and 6,200-foot (1,900 m) Tram Ton Pass.  Trail Route: Drive five miles (8 km) out of Sapa to the Silver Waterfall, then continue another four miles (7 km) to Tram Ton Pass.  Retrace the same route back to Sapa.  Hilltribes: Black Hmong live in the area, but no villages are in the immediate vicinity of the pass or falls.  The Scenery: The waterfalls are impressive and the pass offers a stunning view of the road to China’s Yunnan Province.  Duration: 2 to 3 hours, but confirm how long you have hired the jeep for before setting off, as the driver may have a schedule to keep.  Fitness Level: Moderate, because while the waterfalls can be seen from the road, you will probably want to scale the staircase that climbs beside it for a better — and wetter — view.  This cleverly engineered route features a bridge that crosses in front of the cascades about half way up the falls, allowing hikers to ascend down the opposite side.  The view from Tram Ton Pass can be seen from the road and requires no hiking whatsoever.  Trail Conditions: The road can be bumpy, especially in the no-frills ex-army jeeps used by most drivers, so expect a slow ride.  The trail at the waterfall consists of concrete stairs and is in excellent condition.  Trail Rules: Be very careful if you deviate from the staircase trail beside the waterfall.  Reality Check: The scenery is beautiful, but all of it lies in the endangered Hoang Lien National Park.  Keep in mind that the waterfall can be a washout during the drier first half of the year and that clouds often sweep over the pass and reduce visibility to near zero.  Costs: Foreigners are theoretically required to pay 3,000 dong (US$0.20) to climb up alongside the waterfall, but nobody seems to be bothering with collecting the fee.  Jeeps to the falls and pass can be hired for US$12, which is a real bargain considering you can split the cost among five passengers.  If you want to go it alone, Minsk motorcycles can be rented for about US$8 a day.  Guides: If you hire a jeep, your driver will know the route, so no guide is needed; if you drive your own motorcycle, you’ll want to pick up a map at the Sustainable Tourism Information and Service Centre on Cau May Street in Sapa, which sells maps of Sapa and the surrounding areas for 15,000 dong (US$1.00).

Ta Phin
Mountain valley outside of Sapa

Overview: Several hilltribe villages lie in Ta Phin, a misty valley nine miles (15 km) out of Sapa.  Trail Route: Jeep or motorcycle ride down the main road to Lao Cai, with a left turn down a side road to Ta Phin.  If you’re driving your own motorcycle, be warned that this turnoff is not marked.  You’ll know you are on the road to Ta Phin when you pass the haunted-looking ruins of a burnt-out French seminary.  Within Ta Phin valley there are any number of possible trekking routes, though most people follow the main trail leading through a Hmong village and up to the Ta Phin caves.  Hilltribes: Black Hmong and Red Dzao live in neighboring villages.  The Scenery: Luminous green rice paddy and traditional villages set in a highland valley ringed by mountain peaks.  Duration: Variable, as you could easily spend a whole day here.  Most people take about 2 to 4 hours total.  Fitness Level: Easy to moderate in spots, especially in the caves.  Trail Conditions: Generally good, as the main “roads” are mostly concrete sidewalks sized for motorbikes rather than cars.  Trail Rules: Always ask before taking photos, as the Red Dzao are particularly camera shy.  Reality Check: This mountain valley has an idyllic feel to it, but keep in mind that tending those rice paddies is back-breaking work barely sufficient to feed local families.  Also, while Ta Phin is a great way to get outside Sapa, it’s hardly undiscovered.  Expect to spot some of the same foreign faces you’ve been seeing in the cafes and restaurants of Sapa.  Costs: Foreigners pay 10,000 dong (US$0.70) to enter Ta Phin valley, payable at the gatehouse near the ruins of the seminary.  Xe om motorcycle taxis can take you to Ta Phin for US$2 to 3 one-way, while jeeps can be hired for US$12 round trip.  Alternatively, you can rent your own motorcycle for about US$8 a day.  Guides: You’ll get more out of your visit to Ta Phin with a guide, who will speak English and be able to offer you insights into local hilltribe culture.  In some cases, they will invite you into their homes.  Often no fee is charged, though in these cases, be sure to buy something from your guide at the end of your hike, and don’t bargain too hard when you do.  The dong you spend will help feed, clothe and school local families.

Coc Ly Market

Overview: The market at Coc Ly literally lies at the end of a road that winds along the scenic Green River.  Because of its remote location, both the merchants and the customers are almost all from various hilltribe groups.  In fact, ethnic Vietnamese look almost as out of place here as foreigners do.  Aside from the expected water buffaloes, other goods for sale include a wide array of food, clothing and practical items like tools and corrugated metal roofing.  The market is in full swing only once a week, usually on a Tuesday.  Trail Route: About 100 miles (160 km) from Lao Cai, or a three-hour road journey.  Hilltribes: Black Hmong, Flower Hmong and Tay all frequent this market.  The Scenery: The market sits above the Green River, which you can cross on a narrow suspension bridge straight out of an Indiana Jones film.  You can also hire a boat for a run down the river through limestone gorges and isolated villages.  Duration: If you opt for the boat trip, this is really an all-day affair.  Expect to spend a good chunk of that time driving to and from Coc Ly.  Fitness Level: Easy.  Trail Conditions: The market can be jam-packed on busy days, so expect a crowd.  There’s not much to keep you from falling off the middle of the suspension bridge, so those who are afraid of heights will want to give it a miss.  Trail Rules: Though it’s rapidly being “discovered,” Coc Ly is still largely off the tourist trail.  Try to leave a small footprint.  Reality Check: Though they are cheerful and colorfully dressed, the locals lead extremely difficult lives marred by poverty.  Guides: Ms. Loan, owner of the popular Cat Cat Hotel, can organize a guided minibus trip to Coc Ly.  For a bit more cash, she can send you off in your own jeep.  If you don’t mind getting lost or breaking down in the middle of nowhere, you can skip the tour and rent your own motorcycle for about US$8, plus gas and the inevitable fees for roadside repairs.

(source: www.thingsasian.com)

Anyway we had driven about 500 metres when I noticed the meter read 46,000 dong. The whole trip back to the hotel should cost about 20,000 at most. So we demanded he stop and the kids watched bemused as we bundled them all out onto the side of what is probably Vietnam’s only freeway. Milla was horrified when Julie berated the man loudly saying “you are a bad man, a bad man!!”.

“Mum, you can’t speak to other adults like that!!”, she wailed, more than a little confused by the whole spectacle.

It’s just another of those unexpected outcomes of travel with children. They get to see their parents carrying on in ways they are never likely to encounter in their everyday lives.

We pitched up to the train station in plenty of time for the 9.10 pm departure. Too much time as it turned out. No sooner had we climbed aboard and settled into our nice air-conditioned cabin than the power abruptly died and we were left sitting in what amounted to a dark oven.

Light and air were absent until the train finally left at about 9.45. But the damage had been done. Happy children and become hot and tired and the parents had followed the same path. Still once everyone was asleep it was comfortable enough.

Unless your name happened to be Julie and you were sharing with one squirmy four year old called Jude.

Arrived in Lao Cai at around 8 am and found a minibus up the mountain to Sapa. That final hour on the mini bus wiped out the kids who had been doing pretty well till then. When we finally reached the Sapa Summit hotel, everyone was ready for a rest. Not that anyone actually had one of course except for Julie.

Sapa is a beautiful place. Perched on the side of the mountain it has panoramic views over the terraced rice paddies in the valley below. We had been blessed with a very rare winter day. The sun was shining and the mountains were all cloud free. Apparently at this time of year it is quite common to see nothing in Sapa but mist, cloud and rain.

We had a quiet day exploring the town, which is filled with the colourful local hill tribe people, mainly the Hmong and Dzao. Boy they are ferocious salespeople and it doesn’t take them long to spot the new kids in town. You walk down the street gathering more and more Hmong women all waving beautiful embroidered goods at you. The scrum increases snowball style the further you go.

The wares for sale were beautiful and it was so tempting to utter the fatal words “how much?” But we knew that would be it. That tiny hint of interest would be sniffed by the canny women instantly and you would be committed to buy or die trying. So we kept quiet and just kept saying no thanks.

Unlike some of the worlds legendary sellers these women seem to retain a sense of humour about the whole game. In places like Egypt or Morocco, the bargaining can turn nasty quite quickly and you can feel quite intimidated.

These women were as persistent as they come and would wait for you outside you hotel room, remembering exactly who you were for days at a time. And yet they always had a twinkle in their eye and a wry smile which acknowledged that it was a game that either of us could walk away from if we wanted to.

And while they were keen to sell something, they also seemed genuinley friendly with a cheeky, light-hearted demeanour.

We organised a half day walk through the local villages with a local Hmong guide and so the next day we set off with Sho (apologies to the Hmong for the terrible spelling).

After a misty morning it was another beautiful day and within half and hour we were walking amongst rice fields, with Sho explaining about the lives of the locals. The kids had a lovely time running around outside, spotting piglets, ducks and buffalo. We crossed an Indiana Jones styled suspension bridge complete with missing planks and stopped for a simple lunch in an eatery by the river.

We visited the local school which I’m sure was an eye-opener for the kids.

Some of the Hmong and Dzao women we saw in Sapa magically materialised in the village, “remember me, you say maybe buy later” seemed to be the good-natured refrain.

We did buy a blanket from a lovely old lady in the village. Boy that would take some explaining when we met our regular vendors back in town…

And of course later in town we did decide the time was right to actually bite the bullet and buy some stuff. Plenty of “you buy from me too” to ride out, which Julie did with aplomb. One young girl who attached herself to me was commendably honest. Her opening line was “you buy from me, I stop following you…” It was so funny that both predator and prey got the giggles. And yes I did eventually by something from her just because she was so likeable.

At the end of the melee we ended up with pillowcases, pants for Julie, bags and various bits and pieces for the kids.

The scenery in Sapa is wonderful but for us, I think Sapa will always be the gorgeous people that make it such a special place.

Bloger: KaootaKids

General information:

Area: 678,6 sq. km
Population: 52.5 thousand habitants (2007)
Administrative division:
- Townlet: Sapa
- Communes: Ban Khoang, Ta Giang Phinh, Trung Chai, Ta Phin, Sa Pa, San Sa Ho, Ban Phung, Lao Chai, Hau Thao, Thanh Kim, Ta Van, Su Pan, Suoi Thau, Ban Ho, Thanh Phu, Nam Sai, Nam Cang.
Ethnic groups: H’Mong, Dao, Tay, Kinh, Day, Xa Pha (Phu La) and Chinese.
Location:

Located 38km from Lao Cai City, Sapa is a mountainous district of Lao Cai Province. Sapa District is very well-known with Sapa Townlet, a beautiful and romantic resort. At the height of from 1,200 m to 1,800 m above sea level, the highest point is Fansipan Mount at 3,143 m above sea level. The average temperature of the area is 15-18oC. It is cool in summer and cold in winter and an attractive tourist spot to visitors on all over the world.

Weather and climate:

Sapa weather is very pleasant due to high location and the effect from monsoon in the North. Visitor to Sapa in summer can feel the climate of four seasons in one day. In the morning and afternoon, it is cool like the weather of spring and autumn. At noon, it is as sunny and cloudless as the weather of summer. And it is cold in the evening. With no advance warning of a thunderstorm short and heavy rains may come at noon on any summer day. Subsequently, a rainbow appears, transforming Sapa into a magic land, which for years has been a constant source of poetic inspiration, lights up the whole region.

The best time to witness the scenic beauty of Sapa is in April and May. Before that period, the weather might be cold and foggy; after that period is the rainy season. In April and May, Sapa is blooming with flowers and green pastures. The clouds that settle in the valley in early morning quickly disappear into thin air.

Getting to Sapa:

Sapa is some 400 km from Hanoi, visitors can get to Sapa by bus/train or flight.

- By train: there is night train with air-condition and soft sleepers from deluxe to luxury level of services. Normally, a night train departs Hanoi railway station at 9:00 pm (9:30 pm with Victoria train), arrives Lao Cai railways station at around 5:30 am (6:00 am). The return time is 8:10 pm – 4:35 am or 9:00 pm – 5:05 am. Day train is also available but offer not much comfort and convenience as night one, usually taken by locals. It’s advised to take a night train for safety, comfort and convenience for tourists.

- By bus: there are open buses or private cars for visitors. The open buses can run at day or night time.

- By flight: from Hanoi, take the flight to Dien Bien and then continue get on a bus trip to reach Sapa which is some 250 km from the airport.

Sapa tourism:

Sapa is famous for both its fine, rugged scenery and its rich culture diversity. Sapa is nestling of many ethnic minority village and vivid green rice terraces are sculpted into the mountain sides. It would be of considerably less interest without the HMong and Dzao people, the largest ethnic groups in the region. Sapa has many natural sites such as Sapa ancient rock field, Ham Rong Mountain, Silver Waterfall, Rattan Bridge, Bamboo Forest and Ta Phin Cave.Sapa is also the starting point for many climbers and scientists who want to reach the top of Fansipan Mountain, the highest mountain in Vietnam at 3,143m. Hoang Lien Mountain Range is also called the Alps of the North Sea area since Fansipan Mountain is not only the highest peak in Vietnam, but also in the Indochina Peninsula. The pyramid-shaped mountain is covered with clouds all year round and temperatures often drop below zero, especially at high elevations.

The first thing you notice when approaching the resort town are some detached wooden mansions and villas perched on a hill top or hillside, behind thick pine forests and almost invisible on this foggy morning. Old and new villas with red roofs now appear and now disappear in the green rows of pomu trees, bringing the town the beauty of European towns.

Sapa is home to various families of flowers of captivating colors, which can be found nowhere else in the country. When Tet, the Lunar New Year Festival, comes, the whole township of Sapa is filled with the pink colour of peach blossom brought from the vast forests of peach just outside the town. Sapa is regarded as the kingdom of orchids. Here, orchid lovers are even amazed by the choice, when trekking in the forest filled with several hundred kinds of orchids of brilliant colours and fantastic shapes, such as Orchid Princess, Orchid of My Fair Lady’s Shoe. Some orchids are named after lovely singing birds such as the canary, salangane’s nest, and more.

Sapa is most beautiful in spring. Apricot, plum and cherry flowers are splendidly beautiful. Markets are crowded and merry, and are especially attractive to visitors. Minority groups come here to exchange and trade goods and products. Market sessions are also a chance for locals to promenade and young men and women in colorful costumes to meet, date or seek sweethearts.

Visitors to Sapa will have opportunities to discover the unique customs of the local residents as well as many colorful ethnic markets…Some main market in Sapa and Lao Cai:

Sapa market
Bac Ha market
Lung Phin market
Binh Lu & Tam Duong market
Pha Long market
Muong Khuong market
Can Cau market
Coc Ly market
Muong Hum market

Children playing on the grass

H’Mong girls resting after the market

Hanging a bunch of firewood

Colorful traditional dress

Cooking meal for grandson

Sapa deep in cloud and wild

Beautiful terrace rice fields of Sapa

Turn to blue and tranquil in the dusk